Recipes
Ingredient for the Month of May: Morels
Morels are rare spring mushrooms easily identified by a cone-shaped cap that features a unique honeycombed pattern. Most abundant in the Midwest, these rare wild mushrooms have a less intense flavor than most, ranging from mild and earthy to moderately smoky and nutty. What sets morels apart from other mushrooms is the unique texture: a combination of crunchy and spongy produced by its pitted composition.
Buying:
Morels are typically sold dried or canned, but I prefer to use fresh morels. When selecting morels, look for relatively dry, firm pieces that have a pleasant, earthy aroma. If you purchase fresh morels, remember they can be stored in the refrigerator for no more than 2 to 3 days. As with all mushrooms, throw away any morels that are showing signs of decay.
Storing:
If you are going to be using your morels within a three day period, you can refrigerate them in a basket to keep them fresh. Cover them with a damp paper towel. If you plan on using them in the future, you can dry them yourself very easily. Simply cut them in half, brush them clean, spread them out on a baking sheet and bake them in the oven until dry and crisp.
Preparing:
Because of their pitted surface, morels can be difficult to clean, but this step necessary because they can retain sand and dirt deep in the crevices. Put the morels in a bowl and cover with warm water. Soak, agitating the mushrooms in the water to release any dirt or grit. Use your hands to lift the mushrooms out of the water, then discard the water. Do this 2 or 3 times, or more if necessary.
OTHER USES |
Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Morels and Asparagus
Serves 4 (10 gnocchi per serving)
Ingredients:
1 cup sheep’s milk ricotta |
pinch ground nutmeg |
Morel Sauce:
1 cup fresh morels (2 to 2 ½ ounces) larger ones cut in half
4 cups warm water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons finely diced shallots
kosher salt
½ cup white chicken stock
1 ¼ cups heavy cream
Method:
Put the ricotta in a cheesecloth-lined colander and use a rubber spatula to push as much liquid as possible out of the cheese. Then gather up the ends of the cloth and turn them over and over again (as though wringing a towel), tightening its hold on the cheese and squeezing any lingering liquid out of it.
Put the ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, flour, egg yolk, ½ teaspoon salt, nutmeg and cayenne in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until the mixture comes together into a smooth ball of dough, taking care not to overmix. If the dough feels sticky, work in some more flour. Transfer the dough to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Dust a rimmed baking sheet or cookie sheet lightly with flour. Lightly flour a work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions. Roll 1 portion at a time into a rope-like cylinder, ¾-inch in diameter, and cut the cylinder into 1-inch pieces. Gently make an indentation with your thumb in 1 side of each piece and gather the pieces in a single layer on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining cylinders, adding more flour to the surface as needed.
Cover the gnocchi with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. This will firm them up and help them hold their shape when cooked.
Put the morels in a bowl and cover with the warm water. Soak, agitating the mushrooms in the water to release any dirt or grit. Use your hands to life the mushrooms out of the water, then discard the water. Do this 2 or 3 times, or more if necessary.
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan set over medium heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt, and cook until softened by not browned, approximately 2 minutes. Add the morels and cook, stirring, approximately 5 minutes.
Pour in the stock, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until reduced by three-quarters, approximately 3 minutes. Lower the heat, stir in the cream, and let simmer until reduced by half, approximately 12 minutes. The mixture should have reduced to about 1 ¼ cups and be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Season with salt. Cover and set aside, keeping warm at room temperature.
Pour 2 quarts of water into a 3-quart stockpot, add 2 tablespoons of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Add the asparagus to the boiling water and cook until al dente, approximately 3 minutes. Drain and transfer the asparagus to the ice water to stop the cooking and preserve the color. Once chilled drain again.
Pour 6 quarts of water into an 8-quart stockpot, add 1 tablespoon of salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Add the gnocchi to the boiling water and cook them until they float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the gnocchi to the ice water, and then to a clean, dry bowl. If not serving the gnocchi immediately, toss with the olive oil, cover, and set aside for up to 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours. When ready to serve, reheat in boiling water until they rise to the surface.
Heat the morel sauce in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the gnocchi and asparagus and toss to heat and combine the components of the dish. Divide among 4 dinner plates or bowls and serve.