Ingredient of the Month
October: Mussels

One of the greatest pleasures of Provencal dining is the sweet simplicity of expertly prepared mussels.

Buying: When buying fresh mussels, select ones with shells that are closed. Those that are open should close slowly when tapped. Never buy unshelled mussels unless they are still alive.

Storing: Mussels should always be eaten as soon as possible after they are purchased. Shelled mussels stored in liquid in a tightly sealed container can be refrigerated for 24 to 48 hours. Fresh unshelled mussels will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator when stored in a container and covered with a damp cloth.

Preparing: Wash and scrub the mussels. Discard any mussels that are open and will not close when tapped, as well as ones with damaged shells. Mussels that are unusually heavy may be filled with mud or sand. Either throw them out or soak them for an hour or more in salted fresh water (4 or 5 tablespoons of salt per quart of water).

: One of the most common ways to prepare mussels is a la mariniere: cooked in their shells with white wine, butter, onions, or shallots, parsley and pepper. Mussels can also be grilled, sautéed, fried, marinated, stuffed, or cooked au gratin. They are also a common ingredient in soups, sauces, hors douevres, salads, paellas, stews, and omelettes.


Mussels Provençal

Serves 4

Ingredients:

Mustard Sauce:
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 pounds mussels (about 60 medium mussels), beards removed, rinsed clean under cold, running water
¾ cup Alsatian wine, such as Gewurtztraminer or Riesling

Soft-Shell Crab:
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup low-sodium, store-bought chicken broth
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons diced plum tomatoes
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Black pepper in a mill
3 tablespoons thinly sliced basil leaves

Method:

Pour the olive oil into a heavy-bottomed, 8-quart pot and set it over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring often, until they release their flavors, approximately 1 minute. Add the mussels and continue to cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the wine, lemon juice, stock, and tomatoes, and cover with a lid. Steam until the mussels have opened, 4 to 5 minutes. Discard any mussels that have not opened.

Add the butter to the pot, season with salt and 6 grinds of pepper, or to taste, and gently toss to cause the butter and broth to come together in an emulsion. While tossing, add the basil. Divide the mussels and broth among 4 bowls, and serve.

Embellishment: Add a pinch of saffron threads and/or finely grated orange zest along with the shallots.